Banteay Srei, aka the “Citadel of Beauty” or “Citadel of the Women” is an absolute must-visit destination in Siem Reap. Every year, thousands of tourists (including men :)) make their way to Cambodia to witness firsthand this one of the finest carving artworks.
The carvings are too fine for a man's hand. Therefore, people believe that it must have been built by a woman. But how REALLY fine is this temple? Let’s find out.
Summary:
Date: 967 AD
Religion: Hinduism
Built By: Yajnavaraha and Vishnukumara
Dedicated To: Shiva
Officially, Banteay Srei was completed on the 22nd April 967 AD. The temple was dedicated to Shiva - The Hindu god, as many other temples of its time. However, Banteay Srei was the only major temple at Angkor not built by rulers but by courtiers.
The temple’s original name was Tribhuvanamahesvara, meaning "lord of the threefold world". In fact, the temple has three parts, each honoring different gods, Shiva and Vishnu.
The temple lies within square-shaped outer walls, surrounding a 3-layer enclosure. Each layer contains buildings with distinct carvings, stories, and functions.
- The western pediment: Depicts the Asura brothers Sunda and Upasunda get killed and Tilottama escapes away from their corpses.
- The eastern pediment: Depicts the fight between the demon Maricha seizing Rama's wife, Sita.
As you proceed beyond the following gopura, you're stepping into the second enclosure.
Spanning 38 by 42 meters, the walls of this enclosure boast gopuras situated at both the western and eastern ends.
- The western pediment: Depicts the duel of the Vanara Kings Vali and Sugriva, along with Rama's intervention to support Sugriva, ultimately resulting in Vali's defeat.
- The eastern pediment: Shows Shiva in the form of Nataraja.
The first, or inner enclosure is the most decorated, and the most successfully restored part of Banteay Srei. Here, three sanctuary towers dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu, lined up from north to south precisely.
Facing the sanctuary towers are two libraries positioned on opposite sides, with a sanctuary in between. Crafted from a blend of bricks, laterite, and sandstones, these libraries showcase some of the most exquisite carvings of the Khmer Empire, found nowhere else.
A carving adorning the southern library, depicts the multi-headed demon-king of Lanka, Ravana, shaking Mount Kailasa, the divine abode of Shiva and his consort Uma.
On the library's western side, you'll see Kama, the god of love, shooting an arrow at Shiva. Also, there are panels showing stories from Vishnuite mythology, like the one on the northern library's west side, which tells about Krishna and his uncle, Kamsa.
At the sanctuary, six stairways leading to a platform are guarded by 2 kneeling statues of human figures with animal heads, creating an intriguing entrance to the sacred space.
Banteay Srei Temple is located about 35km away from Siem Reap. To reach it, you can pass through Angkor Park via Srah Srang and Preah Dak, then travel north along Road 67.
Most people will take a tuk-tuk or a taxi to get to Banteay Srei. As a solo traveler, I chose a tuk-tuk during my Cambodia customized tour to have a truly local experience. But if you are on a family tour, taxi is definitely a convenient choice.
A popular choice among visitors is to include Banteay Srei in their Angkor Wat tour, often combining it with visits to Banteay Samre or nearby attractions like the Cambodian Landmine Museum.
Are you too overwhelmed to plan your own Cambodia journey? I used to feel the same. I highly recommend you check out a Cambodia tailor-made tour for a stress-free and unforgettable experience. Have fun!
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